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Help !!!!Lost my clutch this morning,lever on clutch housing all loose, looks like i will have to take the gearbox off and have a look inside can any one talk me through the process of removing and re fitting the gearbox, clutch cable is new before any one asks !! Thanks

clutch
Have you a manul, if not then you need one to do the job. but I will give you the basics and allow the manual to fill in the other bits.
Basically the gearbox and transfer box have to come out as one unit. DRain them of oil first. Firstly mark the popshafts with two lines across the mating surface edges of the props and diff plates. Use two distinct scratches as these will be more obvious on reassemply and will ensure balance. Remove the bolts on each plate. Remove the props by withdrawing the rear one from the rear of the gearbox and the front one from the transfer box. Take care as an oil seal sits inside each and unless you intend to replace these or they are in need of replacement then you don't want to damage their faces and lose the seal. Remember this when you are replacing these later.
Having removed the props and placed to one side you will need to removew the front drivers seat, if you want better access and then the centre consol. This will enable you to remove the shift gaiters and the sticks from the gearbox.
Dicaonnect the clutch cable from the focrum arm and the sdjuster clip and it should then be free from the unit.
There can be a bit of shoving and pulling so it is vital that you support the engine the engine with a good and safe trolly jack or take the weight of the engine with a hoist. Later, when you remove the gearbox rear cross member the engine will tilt backward unless this is done correctly. Support the gearbox with another good trolly jack or transmission jack. Remove the gearbox supporting cross member and then the bolts joining the bell housing to the engine. If I am correct, and someone will no doubt tell me If not, then withdraw the unit from the engine using the movement of the trolly jack. If you happen to have a proper transmission jack all the better. It needs to be moved toward the reap of the car to dissengage the shaft from the pressure plate.
lower it to the floor
Returning to the underside you can now remove the pressure plate from the flywheel and then the frictionplate. Replacement is the reverse but you will need to allin the clutch centrally before tightening the pressure plate bolts. A special clutch allignment tool is a vailabel but a lot use a suitable rod off a broom handle paired down to size.
With that achieved the thrust bearing will be within the bell housing of the gearbox. Try not to turn the splined shaft. The thrust bearing is held on with a very odd and flimsy spring contraption and you should take care in noting it's correct positioning and how it works to ensure correct replacement and fitting of the new bearing. That done then reverse the procedures and hopefully the splines will line up with a little shove and the jobe will be complete. Replace the rear gearbox crossmember to once again take the weight and then all the bell housing bolts. Don't allow the gearbox to dangle on it's shaft without support and if it does't go in first time then rotate it very slightly allowing the splines to line up. The gearbox cannot be on the tilt it must be in line with the engine and that is why I find a good trolly jack handy for this as the weight considerable. Replace the bellhousing bolts etc
My advice is to take time and bear in mind that the box and tranfer unit are heavy. When replacing the prop ensure that your lines made before removal are lined up. It's a little hit and mis as you get the splined end i and then find the lines are not in line, but with patience you will get it back together correctly.
Finally whilst beneath attach the cable to the unit and if you haven't already done so re attach the cross membe. Refill with oil both the gearbox and transfer box and then replace all the shift sticks, consol etc.
That's a very simplistic explanation of events and I'm sure others will pick up on bits I've missed. It is at least 6 years since I did my own and I may have overlooked something obvious.
I always take advantage of having items off to give them a good clean, it eases replacement and looks better and more pleasant when you have finished. It also helps you identify any leaks in the futureor as a result of your work.
I hope this is of use
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Personaly as I have an
Personaly as I have an engine hoist, but not a four / two post ramp to pick the car up to an eisily workable hight, I'v always found it easier to remove the engine. Just my opinion of course.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
sportrax clutch
Thanks to all,looks like ive a busy few days ahead.
Regards Straightcut