Forum:
My 93 sportrak efi, 84k miles will not fire up. It started running a bit flat under 3k mainly up hills but good above that. I could deal with this but then after a few months and 500 miles it seemed to be getting a bit worse til one day it had a misfire all thru the revs. This would start up 1st turn but tickover at 550 rpm with the engine shaking until 1500 rpm when it seemed to smooth out.This would then rev up all the way but still struggle a bit on its way. I hardly used it like this until one day it cut out completely and would not fire up. So far i have, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the dizzy cap, replaced the rotor arm and recently a new coil too. I have done the diagnostic check, 1 flash no problems.Today i checked every fuse that i could find and checked i had fuel coming from the filter on the bulkhead,plenty and a spark at the plugs, there but not as good as i expected.I have also put my laserline immobiliser onto valet setting to overide it,no change and tried it with it immobilised, cuts out the starter motor. Since it cut out i have not heard it fire at all. The new plugs dont seem more than slightly damp after cranking over but even carb cleaner in maf, behind throttle flap, or easy start will not start it. Checked the rocker arms are moving so 1000 miles old cambelt is still there.Forgot to say new leads fitted too and fuel tank half full. Any ideas anyone 
Sportrak Lack of Power.
I would have suspected the coil as I had simmilar problems with these gradually going to earth and then finally stopping completely. The lack of a decent spark seems still to be your main problem. You have, I assume checked the LT side of the coil for breaks? I'll have a look through the Manual and come back to you but I am thinking Ballast resistor circuit.
OLDMINIMAN
I agree entirely with Mace on this problem. I agree timing could be your problem if you have had the disi out. It has been known that poorly stored new items like leads and coils can fail so as mace says check these for the correct output. Because you say you have such a weak spak the current is either not being generated or being drawn off on it's journey to the plugs. As I said my experience was that my coil was generating the outpu,t not to the HT leads but to the body.
A final word, Avoid these sprays as they won't solve the problem and could make it worse. You do need a manual to get the values to check the various point raised, else it is like shooting blind. I am 99% certain it is electrical.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Electrics.
My assumption is that its an electrical fault.
1. Check for a bright blue/white spark at each spark plug electrode.I assume you know how to do this check .. if not you could be in for problems!
2. At night, dark, open the bonnet and get someone to turn the engine. Look for any electrical trace running over electical cables .... shows if/where a cable is broken.
If spark at plugs .... check the timing of the distributor. If you removed the distributor did you refit with No 1 cylinder at correct degrees tdc and on compression stroke? If it was set up on exhaust stroke, the engine will not fire or run even though there is a spark at the plugs!
Next check the fuel system
If no spark/poor spark at plugs ...
1. Test the coil
2. Test the LT 12v supply to the coil.
3. Check the distributor cap for any cracks and length of the carbon brushes within the cap. Check the rotor for any cracks. I assume you fitted the correct part replacement of both rotor and cap.
4. Remove the distributor. First make certain you know how to refit a distributor!
a. check the vacuum advance is working
b. check the gap of the signal generator is 0.2 to 0.4 mm
c. check the govenor weghts are free and moving.
d. check the condition of the signal rotor.
When refitting, set to correct degree btc, No 1 cylinder and on compression stroke. Use a test lamp to check the supply from rotor to earth, by rotating the distributor with bulb between rotor supply and earth.
A word of warning. If you have no repair manual then get one! This job needs the correct proceedure and feel gauge settings. There is a CD sale available from somewhere on this site. Alternatively email me since I have a full w/s manual on CD.
finally !
finally after 6 weeks in a local back street garage i have now got my fully working sporty back. and the answer to the not starting was a sheared woodruff key on the crank timing belt pulley that had made the valve timing wrong and the non starting.hope this helps someone, sometime to not have to wait months to get theirs to start