Hi

Welcome to the Sportrak and the few niggles you have.

Lets take the easiest which is the noise on the steering. It is caused but the steering stops and can be cured by a large dab of grease on each. You will see the culprit if you put it onfull lock and have a look underneath.

The screeching noise is the fan belt and is very common. It is either loose of has been contaminated by oil and slipping. You ewill find it kick in worse with the lights on at night and although quite awkward to getto you need to loosten the Alternatorand retenson the belt. Replaement means removing the Powersteering belt first and I ways remOve the rad and cowl, make the task easier.

The water temperature ca be caused by a number of problems, a blown cylinder head gasket, leacking Radiator or a knackered water pumpor a knackered Rad cap. Rad caps reduce boiling point by keeping the system pressurised. When the engine is at normal working temp the hoses should be hard idicating that the system is pressurised. If soft then it is possible that the cap is in need of replacement and the water is steaming off. Normally under most situations the Sportrack temperature guage sits to the left of normal.

You say that the temp hovers below normal but went to normal yesterday after a long run. The Rad had lost water and boiling water was going into the header tank. I would therefore go for the cheap option of renewing the cap first particularily because of the boiling water going to the header tank. Once this is full it will go down the overflow. As I mentioned without the pressure effect of the system the water will boil off. As the water cools it will draw some back but because alot will have boiled off the rad will remain short of water. The water level is usually at the bottom of the neck. Have a look at the rubber seal on the cap, as a temp measure with care you can remove and turn over the seal or you can assist the seal with a piece of polythene. If the system is then pressurised then replace the cap asap.

Do you have water contamination in the oil? If so then it is most likely the cylinder head gasket has blown and allowing superheated exhaust gases into the water system.

Check also the fins at the bottom of the Raditor. These break away with age and reduce the cooling effect of the radiator.

There is also a possibility of an airlock in the system where it has been drained and not bled . I have to admit that I have drained mine many times and never had this problem but I am aware that others on this forum have found this to be a problem. To bleed remove the heater returnpipe and rn the engine till water comes through. The heater must be on to open the valve allowing the wter to pass thrugh the heater matrix. Once bled replace the hose and top up the rad.

Go for the cheap & simple options first and do not assume cylinder head failure unless you are haing water contamination of the oil, white sludge. Your symptoms make me believe that the cap is the problem.

You may also need toconsider replacement of the Cambelt unless you have proof ofit being done. They should be changed every 60000 miles or 6 years. If unsure ten get it replaced.

I hope this is helpfull

Good luck and enjoy the Sportrak, they are great and I have run a 1991 since 1995 and put over 100k miles on it. It is still superb and has cost very little to repair over those years, a new clutch, rad and rear spring and shocks,cam belts is about the lot except tyres and servicing. I have a stainless exhaust from Ribble Bros which has been on since 1996 and still going strong. I also have a 1996 Anjou which is not as good in build quality to the older car but just as reliable.

OLDMINIMAN