Forum:
Hi. My J reg Sportstrak,starts 1st time , but has an intermittent stalling fault, turns over but will not restart,i lift bonnet, fiddle about to restart, but now this doesn't always work. I have tried every thing myself, but can't solve the prob.Has anyone else had this problem with there sportrak, how did you solve it? Which part is it? fuel output /input, distributer or ????
car been in 2 local garages. 1st didn't get problem.
2nd I asked for it to be done with the Mot.end July. They coulnd't start it for 2 days. thought to be flooding or fuel not getting through - had to take back to have electrics tested - when engineer back. Paid £300 to get MOT but stall/start not sorted out then. Back in garage now - Electrics tested - now a quote for £479 for S/hand distributer - is this the answer - nearly 800 quid will be more than my car is worth, what do I do now?
Needs a check out by a competent Sporty diy mechanic.
Any possibility its the immobiliser giving trouble? The engine will turn over but could be immobilised. Test the immobiliser rocker switch, I assume its manually triggered.
I can only suggest testing for the obvious problems whilst the fault exits .... spark at plugs and fuel supply. Garages tend replace whole items rather than test them - the owner pays etc. Many mechanics are probably unfamiliar with old Sporty technology. Do you rate yourself as competent a diy mechanic or a fiddler?
STARTING AND STAKLLING SPORTY
tHERE ARE A NUMBER OF CAUSES ON THE IGNITION SIDE AND i WOULD LOOK THEIR FIRST. tHE efI UNIT IS REASONABLY GOOD AND SO FAR i HAVE HAD NO PROBLEMS FOR MORE THAN 12 YEARS ON THE SAME MODEL. i HAVE HOWEVER TWICE HAD FAILURES ON THE COIL WHICH FIRSTLY STARTS INTERMUITTENTLY AND THEN FAILS ALTOGTHER.
Try spraying the LT connector at the bottom especially on a damp morning as these can corrode but also they get damp in them. If that cure the problem you are lucky.
The coils can be replaced with the normal type of coil if you have one spare as long as you cut the LT wires so that you can rejoin them with , say japanesse connectors when you get an appropriate replacement. My coil was dumping all the power to earth and I was getting a shock everytime I touched the body. Replacements are available for the injection or carb models. Tyhe last Injection I purchased was about £40 and ordered through a local factor. I purchased a spare ( the third) which remains in the glove box.
The DISI cap can wear as can the rota so check then for damage and burning. Don't overlook the leads which are available as a perfectly good set from ebay at 10.99p. These carbon cored leads are great for a while but heat, dampness gradually breaks down the silicone insulation and then dampness gets into the carbon strands and can cause all kinds of problems. I usually aim to replace these every 4 years as a matter of course. Plugs, nicely out of sight and often out of mind do wear and should be checked for terminal erosion and replaced on a regular basis and I again replace my own every two services or 12k miles. Again not expensive.
My bet would be the coil.
I detailed a diagnostic test on the forum some time ago from the official WS Manual and you may find this of use in finding the fault.
Good Luck
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young