Forum:
Hi all. Checked all the earths and come to the conclusion that starter motor should come out..but how?? I found that space is very limited and I cant work out how you can get a spanner or socket on to holding nuts without dropping motor. Any tips/tricks please.
I took the solenoid off and the brushes are quite worn..are these replaceable?( they are connected to plates). If they are where do I get them from..Milner?
Thanks for any help..and thanks to chap who responded last time.
Griff
been sometime
Well it has been along time since I have posted here....humm the starter motor...If my mind serves me correctly they are 17mm (or may be 16mm) socket heads.
You will need a 3/4 drive ratchet and some extentions...with having a fourtrak to look at I can not remember the exact way to do it, but I do remember that for the 'top bolt' you need to go from underneith the trak.
do a seach for start motor...
yes they are servicable.
Cheers
H
Cheers
H
starter problems
cheers H,
can't see how top bolt would be accessible from below but will have a look and try.
Dont know where to get brushes but will ring around. If I replace these first maybe I wont have to get complete starter off (he says, hopefully!)...
Griff
Special spanner required
The problem is getting at the two long bolts that go through the clutch bell housing to the starter motor flange.
There's no space to get a socket onto them between the back of the engine and the bulkhead.
When I dropped the gearbox, I ground the open ended bit off a flat combination spanner (17mm A/F), and used a piece of tube (actually the handle from my small trolley jack) to get enough leverage to shift the bolts. There's just enough space behind the engine to put the modified spanner on the bolt head then to slide the tube on. BTW, you will have to carve up a good quality spanner, or you will end up with rounded bolt heads and be well in the smelly stuff !
Sorry to teach gran to suck eggs, but combination spanners are those with an open ended spanner on one end and a ring spanner on the other. The other thing that springs to mind is that the top bolt also carries a silly bit of bent tin that supports the gearbox wiring. You might have to bend the tin about to get the spanner on the bolt.
Otherwise, there is no need to partially dismantle the starter motor to remove it .... well there wasn't on my 1998 'trak.
special spanner..
Cheers rf man. Looks like I have the answer from you. Will sort spanner and grinder out tomorrow and have a go.
This is a useful list and helps make me even more enthusiastic for the wonderful fourtrak.....!
Don't go knackering a good
Don't go knackering a good spaner. The round end of the 17mm spaner should go on as it is. Then you can hook another spaner into the 'jaws' on the open end of the spaner to get extra leverage to 'crack' the bolt off. Doing it this way I would sugest bying a 1/2inch drive flexible armed ratchet to undo the bolt once it's cracked. The spaner will do the job, but it's long winded that way.
Also the 1/2inch drive socket with lots of extentions, ending with a universal joint and a 17mm socket will reach the bolt from under the car. The ratchet will need to be right back behind the gearbox crossmember to get bellow the gearbox enough to move properly. As I said a LOT of extentions. If all els failes un bolt the engine mounts from the chassis and the engine block (while suporting the engine of course) and remove them. Then lower trhe engine down onto the front axle. This will give you loads of space to play with.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
O/S
1) the lower starter bolt is accessible from underneath with an ordinary socket.
2) OK, I'm a bit of a perfectionist about special tools which I make up for the job. I've done various bodgery like hooking ring spanners over the ends of open enders, as has been suggested. When this works, fine, but when it slips, then I have the skinned knuckles to prove that too !