Forum:
hi all i just bought a sportrak from a friend over the water in greenock (im in helensburgh, west scotland)
it apparently needs some welding (i havent picked it up yet but theres a pre mot report on it)
and also a brake pipe needs replacing (which i reckon i can blag for the moT)
can anyone give me any pointers to any common places of rot on these please. its a 95 M ELXi in Racing Green.
I hope its useable and not past the point of repair.
my new sporttrak
hi
as for welding both inner rear arches (best got at form the inside)most of the floor at the back and infront of the rear seat all of this is easy if you strip the inside out (did mine on my fourtrak last year)
brake pipe roll of copper pipe costs £8.00 and the ends are 50p each partco elgin simple job
course its useable mine is a g 1989 plated 2.8 td (turbo) 140k miles plus, running on cooking oil and it still goes up and down at 70 plus without any problems. good bit of kit
hopefully its not that bad,
hopefully its not that bad, bought the car from ebay and its to be brought back to roadworth condition for the spring.
its got a premot with it, so hopefully this will show me what needs done. only problem is that i wont be doing any of the welding so its costing me money. thats why i hope there isnt much!
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
hopefully its not that bad
i doubt it these things are pretty solid most of the time i mean mine was abused since the day i got it so rather than do a patch plate we did the whole of it. only true way of knowing run it for an MOT and worry about it later at the end of the day its a m plate motor 1995 i think so its 11 or 12 years old so you may have some work to do but pleanty of life left in it yet. if all it costs you is a bit of welding and a brake pipe for an MOT then i think you did good.
had it under the ramp and
had it under the ramp and its the chassis that has rusted away and needs welding, one spot on the driver side next to the petrol tank, one spot by the front mount of the rear leaf spring.
the passenger side has already had a repair here.
im just going to get it welded but ill have to get the petrol tank out, whihc i know will be a pain in the arse as all of the bolts will be rusted and i cant use heat or a grinder..
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
SPORTRAK RUST
Hi
These are quite good for not rotting but the rear wheel arches where they join the floor can rust along the seams which are poorly sealed, the areas around the seat belt mount on the rear inner wing tends to rust because the stregthening plates rust the bodywork by sandwiching moisture, like wise the areas around the access plates for the rear dampers below the rear seats. All are accesible from inside the car but watch the fuel and brake pipes when welding all these areas.
At the front the plate thatgoes across the beneath the grilland above the bumper can rot at either end.
The lower rear corners of the rear wings can rot from the inside if the draiage hole blocks. Water gets in via the false rear light plates halfway up the rear of the rear wings. These are normally not used in Europe where the lights are contained in the rear bumper. These are plastic and can be removed from behind the inner trim. You will need to remove the boxes on top of the inner wings to get the card trim off, don't overlook the screw atthe bottom of each box. Once the lower corner is repared and the dirt cleared out then waxoyl the area. I use a silicone sealant when putting the back in to prevent the water and dirt geting in. The problem is that the drainage hole in the seam is too small and blocks. It needs to be cleared of waxoyl using a wire of if water gets in it will just fill up. The drainage hole, small as it is , needs to be checked regular with a wire to ensure it doesn't fill up with dirt. A bad design.
If you have the plastic wheel arch covers it is worth removing these and checking behind. If the wheel arches have not been cleaned out regular rust forms and remains hidden behind the Plastic covers. Repair is simple and once done I waxoyl the area covered by the Plastic Arches. I replace the rusty screws with stainless nut and bolts to pevent further problems,I hope.
Sounds a lot but in the main all you will find is small amounts of surface rust lifting the paint and once scoured off good metal will appear which can then be treated. I have a 1991 and a 1996 and both have some, not all of these problems but remain strong and very usable
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
hi I have a 91 plate J reg,
hi
I have a 91 plate J reg, and most of the rot on mine is body not chassis, especially behind the rear wheel arches. Rear brake drums are a nighmare to get off, and the shockers as standard are a bit naff. other than that a good base for an off roader.