Forum:
Hi, I would like some aome advice if possible.
Here is my situation. I have a fourtrak which i tow my digger aorund weekends working, fourtrak has BFG MT on, Now when i tow and need to brake the brakes work but just not that good for the 3 ton (combined weight of digger/trailer) thats pushing me behind.
Is there anyway i can upgrade the brakes, IE put disc brakes on rear to help fornt disc brakes, or do i have have to put up with what i have got?
Thanks in advance
BTW this is the first time i have been able to get on these forums since i complained to virgin media who blocked this site!!
Broken Brakes
Fourtrak brakes are notoriously spongy, but are very effective at stopping the vehicle, particularly when towing heavy loads, this is why they are often the first choice as towing barges by people requiring high weight towing capacities.
Begin be examining the front brakes, check the condition of the discs and pads, replace them with a premium brand item if necessary, ensure the caliper moves freely, and the pads slide freely in the caliper.
Check the rear brakes, ensure the drums and shoes are in good condition, and adjusted correctly, check the slave cylinders for leaks, and contamination.
Check the operation of the load proportioning valve (if fitted) and ensure the arm moves freely, up and down. This opens when the back end of the vehicle sits lower, due to a load, or trailer being attached, and allows more fluid to the rear brakes, thus more brake force.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs water, when braking the heat is transferred to the fluid and this turns absorbed water into small bubbles of steam, thus worsening the braking effect. Replace the brake fluid, begin by draining the old fluid out, begin by bleeding rear nearside brake, rear offside brake, front nearside brake, and front offside brake. Be thorough when bleeding your brakes, this usually gives a very noticeable increase in braking effect.
Has your trailer actually got brakes fitted, it is a legal requirement for any trailer over 750KG to have brakes fitted, are they working correctly, and is the trailer suitable for towing this weight. Often, i find that trailers are undersize for the weight being towed, subsequently, so are their braking systems.
BRAKES
Thank you very much for yuor in depth reply, I will have a look at what you have suggested.
The brakes work ok with out the trailer on, I wouldn't of said they were fantastic, It had new brake pads on for last months MOT so they should be good? The trailer brakes are ok, but it does tend to push a little under braking
I have a 2" lift, would that affect the arm movement you mentioned when the vehicle sits lower due to the load?
It does feel when I brake that the rear brakes are not working, I'll wait until the weekend and play around with the brakes and see if i can see any problems.
Thanks again
There is a balancing valve
There is a balancing valve in the line going to the rear axle. It's on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail, near the front hanger for the rear spring. This is there to stop too much break pressur being put to the rear breaks. It is meant to stop the rear wheels locking when you break like made. It is also what gives the breakes their Daihatsuish spongey feeling. It also has the effect of making it hard to stop a trailer which does not stop itself very well. The trailer breaks should stop the trailer quite well it's self, but it will push the car some, as that is what opperates the trailer breaks. If the trailer breaks are working properly, and you still have a problem, removing the balance valve should help when towing, as the rear axle will be breaking harder. You might find though that you have majour skiding problems under emergency breaking with no trailer.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Nev.k wrote: There is a
Nev.k wrote:There is a balancing valve in the line going to the rear axle. It's on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail, near the front hanger for the rear spring. This is there to stop too much break pressur being put to the rear breaks. It is meant to stop the rear wheels locking when you break like made. It is also what gives the breakes their Daihatsuish spongey feeling. It also has the effect of making it hard to stop a trailer which does not stop itself very well. The trailer breaks should stop the trailer quite well it's self, but it will push the car some, as that is what opperates the trailer breaks. If the trailer breaks are working properly, and you still have a problem, removing the balance valve should help when towing, as the rear axle will be breaking harder. You might find though that you have majour skiding problems under emergency breaking with no trailer.
I think I'm going to try the same load I carry on another trailer first just to see if problem is with the trailer I have now or with the actual jeep.
I will report back with my findings over the weekend.
Thankyou for your reply
Broken Brakes
From your response, it would appear that your trailer brakes require adjusting, towing heavy loads has a tendancy to wear out trailer brakes quite quickly.
Hitch your trailer to your vehicle, under the trailer in the brake cable is a threaded section, tighten this a little at a time to compensate for the wear in the brakes, and apply your trailer brakes earlier. When adjusted correctly, the trailer should just just slightly push the vehicle before they apply themselves; this is trial and error to adjust then correctly. Once they are correctly adjusted, it is simply a matter of ensuring they are regularly adjusted to maintain them in tip top condition, do not forget, when you replace the trailer brakes, to slacken off the adjusting bar, and readjust them again.