Forum:
Hello, please can someone help me, my J-reg 1600 petrol Sportrak doesn't start when the engine gets warm.
If I leave it for half and hour or so it will start...
It's had a new dizzy, dizzy cap, there is fuel getting in ok, sparks are ok, basically everything that can be checked has been checked, it seems that when the engine gets warm it just won't start.
Can anyone help me please? Is this something that is specific to a Sportrak?
Kind thanks
Non Starting Sporty
Could bre a sensor problem on the injection system. I did a paper on shorting out the diagnostic plug which you may find usefull in elliminating the culprit. Could of course be the coil breaking down once hot, worth a look.
Have a look through the forum for the diagnostics test. If I find it I'll copy it to you.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Coil - Start with the coil.
Coil - Start with the coil. Ours dropped dead for no apparent reason last year, I got so frustrated in the end so I went to a breakers and stripped a Sporty of everything important and changed it all one by one, got to the coil and away she went. There have neen a few instances of this, so now I carry a spare.
Oldminiman - thanks for the diagnostics.
Dave with a Sporty
Dave with a Sporty
diagnostics
THIS IS IN ANSWER TO SCHIMITAR BUT ANYONE CAN FOLLOW IT TO DIAGNOSE FAULTS. IT IS QUITE LENGTHY AND EXTRACTED FROM THE OFFICIAL SPORTRAK MANUAL. I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY USE OF THIS THAT MAY RESULT IN ANY DAMAGE BUT I HAVE WRITTEN IT DIRECT FROM THE MANUAL.
The diagnostic plug is on the right handside of the bulkhead and on mine is green in colour. The black spots are rubber bungs which can be removed.
Remove the two front bungs from the right side in on the front row. The furthest right is the test terminal and the next is ground. Place a wire between the two. I usually use ring main wire as it can be shaped and plugs in easier.
Set the ignition to on but do not start the engine. The check engine light will flash a number of times indicating the fault.
eg 1 flash of about 0.5 seconds 4.5 seconds after the key has been switched on indicates no fault. The light will flash again after 4.5 seconds. This then will be the pattern repeated by all the faults.
When a single malfunction occurs the engine check lamp will flash a number of times for 0.5 seconds 4.5 seconds after the key is switched on and then repeat the flashes after a further 4.5 seconds.
When a number of faults are detected the same will occur but the next malfuntion code will flash after 2.5 seconds. So you get one malfuntion as above , a second after 2.5 seconds and so on. Once all are flashed it will repeat them again after 4.5 seconds.
To cancel a diagnosis code disconnect the battery earth cable (-) for at least 10 seconds with the ignition switched off. Ambient temperature should be 20C
Codes:
when idle switch is turned off
1 flash normal
2 flashes Pressure sensor - check pressure sensor, circuit
3 flashes Ignition signal - No signal from Ignition- check Disi, ignitor, coil, leads.
4 flashes Water Temperature sensor -check Water temp. sensor and circuit.
5 flashes Oxygen sensor - check sensor and circuit
6 N/A
7 flashes Throttle position sensor when both idle and power switch enter "on" - check Throttle sensor and circuit.
8 flashes Intake Air temp Sensor deviation from values -check Intake Air temp Sensor and circuit.
9 flashes Vehicle speed sensor No signal input from sensor - check vehicl speed sensor and circuit.
10 flashes Starter signal Failure to input starter signal. Note this may occur and memorised if the car is bump started. - Check starter and circuit
11 flashes Switch signal When even one of the following conditions is satified with the test terminal shorted with the Ground terminal: A) air conditioning funtioning
Check Air Con Syste, Throttle position sensor,and circuit.
12 flashes EGR control When judged that the EGR control system is not functioning properly. - check EGR valve Modulator, EGR VSV and water temp. sensor.
15 flashes Air to fuel mix RICH. CHECK INJECTOR CIRCUIT, INJECTOR, FUEL PRESSURE, PRESSURE REGULATOR,PRESSURE SENSOR, wATER tEMP. sENSOR AND CIRCUIT,iNTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR AND CIRCUIT.
16 flashes Air to fuel mix WEAK. -CHECK INJECTOR CIRCUIT AND INJECTORS, ECU, FUEL PRESSURE,PRESSURE REGULATOR,PRESSURE SENSOR,WATER TEMP SENSOR AND CIRCUIT, INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR AND CIRCUIT.
phew. it is a translation from Japanese and is not in the best of English and against each is a reference to the Manual for the appropriate reference page in the manual ef 2 flashes = EF 172 and 147
3 = ig 15,3 & EF149,
4-EF165 & EF150
5 EF187 &151
7 EF170&152
8 EF168 & 155
8 EF168&155
9 EF156
10 EF157
11 EF170 &158
12 EF181 &165,
15 EF220;231;172;165;150;168;155.
16 EF 220;186;231;165;150;168;155.
aS YOU GO THROUGH THE CHECKS AND CORRECT WHERE NECESSARY DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL FOR 10 SECONDS AND THEN RUN THE TEST AHGAIN AND KEEP DOING SO TILL YOU GET 1 FLASH.
I hope you can make sense of this and that you can find your fault and cure it. The manual will tell you how to test the sensors, where to locate them etc.
GOOD LUCK
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
problem starting my sportrak (tried everything)
right then i am taking a bit of a guess here is the vch fitted with either a carb or the EFI fuel injection system?
is there a self-diagnosis system or LOS system in operation?
i assume that you have checked the static timing and compression can you hear the fuel pump prime
does it backfire or smell of petrol
when you open the fuel cap does the tank hiss and try and pull the cap back on
now if it is the EFI nmodel i would check the fuel pressure and injector flow rate and change the fuel filter and then the throttle position sensor and circuit and the cold start sensor I have heard of this causing this sort of failing as does the coil breaking down
if it stalls after firing i would check
throttle position
air valve of throttle body
pcv hose for restriction
before going much further check for leaks in the fuel pipes and the operation of the EGR VSV system, oxygen sensor
i know that the list of things to do seems endless and unless you have a fault code reader is a pain to complete but i wouls also suggest you PM oldminiman as he is god for the sportrak
good luck
me and my kid brother same problem on our sporty's
Turned out that it was a faulty temperature sensor on our cars giving cold readings and flooding the engine, I found it helped to take the air filter off when re-starting the car if it was warm and then replacing it once it started. I would put money on your spark plugs being covered in black soot.
As a tempory fix I put a 0.4 ohm resistor in the place of the sensor, but that made it hard to start from cold.
It was a nightmare to find a sensor that wasn't from the daihatsu main dealer (£80), the local autofactors were not much use as their books were wrong and they pointed me to the main dealer. I eventualy gave in and coughed up £80 it did the trick, my kid bro has tried my new sensor in his sporty for a day, it did fixed his motor but I needed it back, he can't afford it yet, even though he would save the cost in fuel.
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