Forum:
I need help. I’ve changed every component from the coil to the plugs and my sporty is still playing up. Accelerating from 3rd to 4th at 40M.P.H. 3000revs. It jumps like a kangaroo. No acceleration is possible, top end has gone.
The one key consistency is that it only does it when it’s damp and/or cold. Once warmed up I can put my foot down with no problems at all.
I feel as though I’m throwing money into a bottomless pit trying to sort the problem out.
PLEASE, HAS SOMEBODY GOT A SOLUTION?
sick sporty.
I would have put the blame squarely on the HT leads particulrly with your reference to the conditions occuring when cold and damp. This is a typical symtom of HT failure either via the leads or in the cap itself.
Check through the LT connectors from the botom of the coil ensuring that any joiunts are secure and that none of the LT circuit is chaffed allowing a short circuit.
If all the ignition parts including the leads, disi cap, coil, rota arm and plugs have been renewed then you have two possible problems . The first is the electronic didtributor and the second would be one of the sensors. You would need to have a diagnostic test once you have elliminated all the ignition system, which I still favour.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
sick sporty
Thanks for the reply. I have fitted a new coil, rotor, distributor cap, leads and plugs. You mention two possible causes: the distributor and sensors. What would be wrong with these? Is there a way of finding out which is the culprit without the need for a garage? I ask this as I have spent a lot of time and money (had to have the clutch and cable replaced) trying to find a solution and if I can solve the problem myself it would save further more being spent. I have gotten rather fond of my “little†sporty and would love to see it working properly again.
Robert
sick sporty.
I'm sorry to say that there isn't a DIY test that is easy or achievable. On the ignition side you could start the car and before it gets hot and settles check each plug is operating but it is really a shot in the dark. I assume all the LT side appears ok. Try WD40 on the LT wires before starting and the Green item that they pass through on the rear of the Cam cover. This comes apart and you can wd40 the connectors. If this improves it then the fault could be on the LT side. On the N/S inner wing you will find a ballast resistor box again you could give that a spray at the same time. If none of that improves the cold running of the car I would suspect the temperature sensor but it would have to be via a diagnostic test to be sure.
Sorry to be a bit vague but you have carried out all that I would have done and withno benefit your options are decreasing without diagnostic facilities.
I did a large piece on shorting the diagnostic plug and I will look through the forum and see if I can find it and point you to it. That will indicate sencor faults.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Sick Sporty
Hi Again
As promised you I have found the paper I wrote on DIAGNOSTICS. YOU WILL NEED A MANUAL AND i WOULD SUGGEST GETTING A GOOD CD VERSION FROM EBAY. PAPER COPIES ARE RARE AND VERY PRICEY. SOMEONE ON THE FORUM MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU WITH THE BEST VERSION AVAILABLE.
IT IS QUITE LENGTHY AND EXTRACTED FROM THE OFFICIAL HARD COPY OF THE DAIHATSU OFFICIAL SPORTRAK MANUAL. I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY USE OF THIS THAT MAY RESULT IN ANY DAMAGE BUT I HAVE WRITTEN IT DIRECT FROM THE MANUAL.
The diagnostic plug is on the right handside of the bulkhead and on mine is green in colour (1991). The black spots are rubber bungs which can be removed. IMPORTANT!! Replace these bungs after the testing to prevent water damage.
Remove the two front bungs from the right side in on the front row. The furthest right is the test terminal and the next is ground. Place a wire between the two. I usually use ring main wire as it can be shaped and plugs in easier.
Set the ignition to on but do not start the engine. The check engine light will flash a number of times indicating the fault.
eg 1 flash of about 0.5 seconds 4.5 seconds after the key has been switched on indicates no fault. The light will flash again after 4.5 seconds. This then will be the pattern repeated by all the faults.
When a single malfunction occurs the engine check lamp will flash a number of times for 0.5 seconds 4.5 seconds after the key is switched on and then repeat the flashes after a further 4.5 seconds.
When a number of faults are detected the same will occur but the next malfuntion code will flash after 2.5 seconds. So you get one malfuntion as above , a second after 2.5 seconds and so on. Once all are flashed it will repeat them again after 4.5 seconds.
To cancel a diagnosis code disconnect the battery earth cable (-) for at least 10 seconds with the ignition switched off. Ambient temperature should be 20C
Codes:
when idle switch is turned off
1 flash normal
2 flashes Pressure sensor - check pressure sensor, circuit
3 flashes Ignition signal - No signal from Ignition- check Disi, ignitor, coil, leads.
4 flashes Water Temperature sensor -check Water temp. sensor and circuit.
5 flashes Oxygen sensor - check sensor and circuit
6 N/A
7 flashes Throttle position sensor when both idle and power switch enter "on" - check Throttle sensor and circuit.
8 flashes Intake Air temp Sensor deviation from values -check Intake Air temp Sensor and circuit.
9 flashes Vehicle speed sensor No signal input from sensor - check vehicl speed sensor and circuit.
10 flashes Starter signal Failure to input starter signal. Note this may occur and memorised if the car is bump started. - Check starter and circuit
11 flashes Switch signal When even one of the following conditions is satified with the test terminal shorted with the Ground terminal: A) air conditioning funtioning
Check Air Con Syste, Throttle position sensor,and circuit.
12 flashes EGR control When judged that the EGR control system is not functioning properly. - check EGR valve Modulator, EGR VSV and water temp. sensor.
15 flashes Air to fuel mix RICH. CHECK INJECTOR CIRCUIT, INJECTOR, FUEL PRESSURE, PRESSURE REGULATOR,PRESSURE SENSOR, wATER tEMP. sENSOR AND CIRCUIT,iNTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR AND CIRCUIT.
16 flashes Air to fuel mix WEAK. -CHECK INJECTOR CIRCUIT AND INJECTORS, ECU, FUEL PRESSURE,PRESSURE REGULATOR,PRESSURE SENSOR,WATER TEMP SENSOR AND CIRCUIT, INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR AND CIRCUIT.
phew. it is a translation from Japanese and is not in the best of English and against each is a reference to the Manual for the appropriate reference page in the manual ef 2 flashes = EF 172 and 147
3 = ig 15,3 & EF149,
4-EF165 & EF150
5 EF187 &151
7 EF170&152
8 EF168 & 155
8 EF168&155
9 EF156
10 EF157
11 EF170 &158
12 EF181 &165,
15 EF220;231;172;165;150;168;155.
16 EF 220;186;231;165;150;168;155.
AS YOU GO THROUGH THE CHECKS AND CORRECT WHERE NECESSARY DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL FOR 10 SECONDS AND THEN RUN THE TEST AHGAIN AND KEEP DOING SO TILL YOU GET 1 FLASH.
I hope you can make sense of this and that you can find your fault and cure it. The manual will tell you how to test the sensors, where to locate them etc.
GOOD LUCK
OLDMINIMAN
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Problems Submitted by oldminiman on Sun, 01/04/2007 - 14:18.
M J Young
sick sporty
Thanks, I'll do what I can and get back to you once the problem has been solved.
Robert
hi, did you ever get to the
hi,
did you ever get to the problem of the lack of power on your sporty,,,,, if so great, if not try investigating the vacum pipes around the engine for splits or not on proper, if they loss vacum at certian times they upset some of the sensors and report back wrong readings which causes all sorts of problems
may not be any good but worth a try,,
Sick sporty
Thanks for the replies. Work involvements and lack of time (and inclination to some extent) led me to going to a garage. Fortunately the guy seemed to know what he was talking about and after leaving it with him over night he came back and told me that the carburettor was showing its’ age. He’d solved some issues with broken air pipes but ultimately it came down to something he called a “wax stick valve†(I may have miss-heard) which was not reacting to the throttle as quickly as it should.
The next question is.
Can this be repaired or is it time to start hunting for a new (second-hand) carb?
Just a quick thought. Can the carb. be changed to fuel injection?
P.S. what is a “wax stick valveâ€
I do now have a manual but it mentions wax but gives no explination.
Robert