Forum:
My F75 is running hotter than I would like it to on the highway and 4x4ing on the beach, I have had the radiator and the block cleaned out,I have checked the timming,I have replaced the thermostat,the fan seems to be ok, It does not use any water. Could this have any thing to do with the oil cooler?:?
Raz
It sounds like a dud temp sen
It sounds like a dud temp sender to me, or crook thermostat. My F75 runs no motor driven fan or shroud. It had a merticulous radiator ream and flush, motor flush, and the gauge now sits on about the "T" of the word temp. It goes up a little in traffic, but does go up a lot when doing heavy beach work. I have one electric fan fitted between the radiator and the intercooler, with plans for another behind the radiator on the RHS, just for the times on the beach. All this done with ambient temps around the 20 - 35 deg C.
As for your oil cooler, assuming it is the chrome lump attached to the oil filter housing, mine was blocked solid. 24 hrs soaking in an acid bath had no effect. The coolant hoses were also very brittle and blocked, as was the fitting into the rear of the block. So I removed it and fitted a remote oil cooler. I tapped threads into the two oil feeds in the cooler mount, and ran 3/8 oil lines to the front. I then bypassed the coolant side of things by running a length of hose from rear block fitting forward to the fitting on the water pump. This also helps to get coolant to the rear of the block faster.
When you say the radiator was cleaned, do you mean it was flushed, or were the tanks removed, and the cores reamed??
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
Engine running hot
Bundy I had the radiator tanks removed and the cores reamed. The thermostat is working fine, does your F75 have A/C if so where did you find a thermo fan small enough to fit behind the intercooler?. I took my spoties and grill off and went for a run up the hwy and back to see if that would make a difference. It made a very slight differance. I am going to temp sender next, then again my F75 may not like QLD weather.
Raz No, I dont have A/C. The
Raz
No, I dont have A/C. The fan is about 40mm thick. Its one of the smallest I have seen. I cant remember where I got it, but I didnt buy it at a shop, just aquired it somewhere.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
Running hot...
Raz,
My 1990 F75 had the same problem here in the tropics.
It was imported from Holland where it can get much colder and therefore It's comen practice here to remove the thermostad.
I did that and havend had any problems since.
Mind you that removing the thermostad is only an option when operating klimate above 25deg C.
Hope this can give you a clue how to handle further.
Gilly
I know this is going to sound
I know this is going to sound sus, but bare with me. Do you have spotlights on the front of your jeep? I ask becouse testing done by Daihatsu UK found that spotlights when fitted in certain places coused a vortex affect behind the spots, cousing the air flow to go around the front of the vehicle and not trhough the rad!
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
overheating
does the rad pressurize if so have you checked the piston bores as they are prone to perforating and causing them to run hotter i had same problem with mine only got hot when towing it also never used any water
I've just stumbled over this
I've just stumbled over this problem again. And I've remembered about my own expriance with over heating 4traks(2 of). Both times it turned out to be the viscos fan not locking it self up. Does your trak have a viscouse fan? If you don't know, look at the fan. When engin is off & cold, can you turn the fan blades intependently of the fan body and pully? If you can it's viscus. These fans are suposed to bocome solid at a sertain temprature, allowing the fan to pull air through the rad. If the fan isn't engaging it will still spin freely with the engin, but it will be drawing very little air.
If you want to test your fan to see if it's engaging. Get the engine as hot as you can (though not into the red). Then open the bonnet, and gently try to push a broom handel (or symiler) against the fan blades. If you keep the broom handle at an angle (pointing the same way as the direction of fan spin) you shouldn't be in any danger of fly broomhandel parts. Pointing the broom handle opposite to the direction of fan spin is asking to damage the handle, your car & YOU. If the fan is not locking up you will be able to stop the fan blades spinning, while the fan body keeps spinning with the fan belt & pully. Be fairly vigourus with your efforts. If the fan has locked up it will keep spinning and try to knock the broom handdle away.
This problem can be solved by bying a new viscos fan. Expensive I think. Or by unbolting the two halves of the main fan body (removing the plastic blades first). Split the halves (don't worry about the fluid that comes out, it's already usless as the fan isn't working). Then cut some thin rubber (or possibly plastic/cardboard) to pinch in between the two fan body halves. It has to be a tight fit. You are amiming to jam the fan solid. Once you've bolted everything back together (with your bit of rubber jamed inside the fan body) you should have an old fashoned solid fan.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Or you can just drill and bol
Or you can just drill and bolt the viscous coupling.
Frank.
Thought about that, but it's
Thought about that, but it's more likely to unbalance the fan and put unnesesery strain on the water pump barings that way.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.