Hi All,
I know there have been a couple of issues with K3 Engine misfires of late. To cut a long story short my car has started to misfire slightly, but this maybe because of a hole in my exhaust which has now been fixed and the bottom O2 sensor being picky perhaps?
At the moment I have had no Engine management system light come on, but the guys at my local dealership/garage say that any fault can take upto and above 4 cycles before the ECU will show its one. Diag computer plugged in shows nothing at the moment, which my Scangauge is showing no codes either.
At the moment I am now trying some Wynns injector cleaning fluid with a full tank of new Vpower 99 to see what happens. If this continues will then look at plugs, etc... to see if the problem can be determined.
Something interesting that has been mentioned today by one of the long serving Daihatsu mechanics, is that Daihatsu Injectors arnt that brilliant compared to other manufacturers, and this is something that we all need to be aware of.
Will keep you posted on any further issues and/or if the injector cleaner fixed it. 
Another Update and play
Took the car out again today from a fresh cold start:
1). Car acts normal, and no issues
2). Took a car for a spin a couple of miles up the road and kept on a B road in 4th
3). Slowed the car down to turn into a sode road, car is in full auto Mode, then the misfire comes in
4). Comes to a round a bout in 1st try and pull away starts oka then starts chugging
5). Pulls up to the McDonalds Drive through, while waiting in the queue, switch the engine off for barely 1 minute. Pays for my food and sets off.
6). On the way home car pulls like a train again, no hesitation or misfire
7). Gets to a mini roand a bout on the way home use steershift this time. And using 2 nd gear pulls off, out of the window I can here the exhaust and the sound of a misfire coming from the exhaust with load on 2nd.
8). Gets home and all is well. No Engine Management Light, used the scangauge to scan for codes and nothing comes back.
It's definately a weird one
Lets see if it is the injectors afertall. But why would the car respond better after a switch off and restart? One of the sensors on warm up perhaps?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Update: New coil Packs
Okay, managed to source some new Coil Packs and replaced my old ones with the new ones.
Still the same issue
Having a think about what I have had done to the car and the issues starting:
Car was serviced end of May this year and the following done:
- New Lightened alloy pullies (Except Alternator and tensioner)
- New D-SPort Live wire from alternator to battery
- New NTK (NGK) Exhaust O2 sensor Fitted (New manifold O2 Fitted a month earlier and no issues, again a NTK)
- New D-SPort Low Temp Thermostat Fitted
- Evans Waterless Coolant used
- Autobox Fluid and filter replaced
Issue discovered with hole appearing in the exhaust on the hanger before the exhaust joins the manifold.
On the drive back home on that day after the service, I dont remember any issues with the cars performance or any misfires.
On 16th June 2012. Day of the last Daihatsu Meet up. Car ran perfectly well on the drive up to the meet. Day was very wet and rainy, and the bonnets were up on occassion.
On the drive back home it was wet, and this is when I came across a sudden power loss and the engine felt like it was surging on and off with the accelerator pushed down, as I can could hear the apexi whooshing on and off, but at the time didnt think much to it. Then the following days after that it was when I noticed the misfiring.
So could it be that the hole in the exhaust had opened up and water had gotten into the exhaust, and has effected the bottom O2 sensor? Or just coincidence?
Umm...
Going to swap the Spark Plugs with the old ones again to rule them out, but not sure if it would be these if the car ran okay on the way home from the service.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Regarding the water into
Regarding the water into exhaust, No.
Exhaust runs so hot, And there is water going over the sensor everytime you start the car from cold, Via condensation during warm up.
But it could be the sensor still.
You said the exhaust hole was repaired? Did they weld near it?
The weld was done over the
The weld was done over the actual hole where the bracket was. But the misfire was happening before I had the weld done.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Low temp thermostat... A
Low temp thermostat...
A Lower running temp means more engine wear, and less power/economy. Bad move unless on you are on the track and struggling with overheating.
Could be something related here with the coolant sensor as that is one of the sensors that is informing ECU what to do with fuel enrichment. Also with ECU has being piggybacked with FCD/unichip. It may not be able to compensate to the cooler temp range.
However I also see you are using evans. Which generally runs hotter.
These 2 items are possible culprits to the misfire. Either it's running too hot, or too cool for what the coolant sensor is expecting.
Thinking it could be the
Thinking it could be the D-Sport Low Temp Thermostat. But why would D-Sport sell this item for the YRV and sirion etc.. If it wern't fit for purpose?
Been having another play today. Luckily the Scangauge shows the O2 sensor circuits and whetjer its in a closed (O2 in control) or open (ECU governs the fuel air mixture) Loop. Will have a look when I take the car on the road to see when the misfires happen. I'm thinking in closed loop, and will be fine when in Open Loop. Should give me a clue then on where to look.
If I have to replace the thermostat with the original again, I take it the coolant will have to be drained first? Or can I get away with just swapping them over without this? Only reason for asking is I spent a small fortune on the Evans
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Dont understand Nathans Comment !!
Evans runs Cooler Not Hotter.
Where did you get that from Nathan??.
If you have to drain the Evans just drain it into a container and then you can put it through a Metal "Flour Type" Sieve
(If it needs it)and put it straight back in - no problem.
You were keeping that one quiet Jon..
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Looks like it was the low temp thermostat
First off, big thanks to DaihatsuDave for helping me out with the following, I now know how to swap the thermostat now
Okay trip up to DaihatsuDave's to his home just in case it wasn't the thermostat, and we can get parts off his scrapper to try.
Did a drain of the system, removed the intercooler and bracket to get to the thermostat housing. Dave did most of the work here for me
removed the housing and captured what Evans there was. Replaced the Dsport thermostat with the original. Everything bolted up and refilled back with what we captured of the Evans. Started the car and tried it, and straight away the car felt better.
no chug, or misfire or shaking of the car 
Fast forward 1 day. Reran the same test on the car, started up from cold, run out on the road to get upto temp, and I am happy to report it did indeed looked like the low temp thermostat was to blame
Thanks also to Nathan (pocketrocket) for the feedback, and ideas to where to look. Wouldn't have thought of the thermostat causing all that problem. But yet again a read up on the Internet also enlivened me to how a computer controlled engine is a good and a bad thing.
And to Bob and his witty banter along the way
Will see now for the next couple of days to see how things go and see what the Evans is doing
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Definately the thermostat
Well been using the car for the last couple of days since replacing the DSport Low Temp Thermostat with the original. Car runs sweet again.
I presume the low Temp Thermostat can only be used with a properly setup ECU. Live and learn
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Good news!
Good news!
06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &
Brilliant, Glad it seems to
Brilliant, Glad it seems to be sorted
Fingers crossed !!
Did the D Sport have a bleed toggle valve in it to let out any trapped air?
And as for the Evans. You need never change it again and I bet you never top it up either. Mine has been in over 16 months now and I have never had to touch or top it up.
Question. Did you check the engine temp before using Evans and see what the temp is now you are using it?
What average temp does your engine run at?
My Rally runs between 177 and 183 C during normal driving.
It used to be in mid to high 190s.
And which Evans are you using?
I am using NPG+
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Yeah the Dsport had the
Yeah the Dsport had the toggle and looked virtually identical to the original. The original on the YRV turbo is a 80 degrees centigrade one where as the Dsport opened at 68 degrees centigrade.
As for the type of Evans I am using, it's the 180 degree race type. So not sure what the other one is? NPG+ ?
Before Evans and using the standard water and coolant the car at this time of year would plump of 88 degrees centigrade standard driving temp and can rise to 94 degrees centigrade. At the moment I am not seeing any difference to the tepms accept it still hits 88 degrees c and can rise to 94 degrees c at this time of year. When I had the low temp thermostat in, the temps would slowly rise in temperature from 78 degrees c and could reach low 80 degrees temp whilst driving. It took longer for the temperature to rise to what I am seeing at the moment. So not sure what that is about?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Because the cooler one starts
Because the cooler one starts opening earlier, It then ends up being further open than the higher temp thermo. So it takes longer for car to reach it's running temp.
You may have found with some more experiments that standard heat range spark plugs and cooler thermo may have run OK.
But the cooler thermo along with cooler plugs combination probably put you into the plug fouling region causing the misfire.
Evans does not keep engine as
Evans does not keep engine as cool as well as pure water or antifreeze and water. It is a thicker product so does not flow around engine quite as easily. It's a known fact and admitted by Evans.
Evans has a much higher boiling point than water, so you don't get boiling and local hotspots from steam. But the engine itself is running a bit hotter.
I have read that Evans is approx 10 times more viscous than water/antifreeze
http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-shouldn%92t-everyone-use-evan%92s-npg-coolant-99933/
Thanks Bob. Out of a matter
Thanks Bob.
Out of a matter of interest what colour is the Evans 180degree race car stuff supposed to be? Red?
Well yes the YRV Turbo engine (Especially in Summer) is a hot beast, and therefore needs all the help it can get to work properly.
Did a read up on the web about low temp thermostats and computer controlled engines, and what Nathan says makes sense. So do DSport sell this item inteneded for use with one of their own ECU systems perhaps?
Thinking best bet is to remove the low temp thermostat and replace with the original one and see to start with.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
If you need to run cooler,
If you need to run cooler, Then you need water.
Distilled pure water has the best heat transfer properties, of course you cant only run that in winter or in the long term due to freezing up and corrosion. 30% or 50%max added antifreeze concentrate is fine for protection in UK. Anymore and the antifreeze affects the heat transfer quite a lot.
But anyway. You need to be sure if the engine is currently running cooler than it should (due to thermostat) or hotter (due to evans).
IT could even be the same temp of course and the fault not related to coolant temp.
Where does the temp gauge sit when driving normally?
And D-sport. They sell things to make money!
If it fits a car they will list it. They don't test any products they sell, D-Sport are a seller/distributor and nothing more)
Problem is you keep buying / modifying and changing things on your car for no real valid reason. I have been there (been modding cars for 20 years now). Most of what you see for sale is just a waste of good money and does nothing beneficial. And often results in hassle.
The first question you should always ask yourself when you see a product that claims benefits...."Do the car manufacturers use it"
If the answer is no, which it often is. Then the products clams are likely hugely exaggerated! After all, every car manufacturer is in a constant battle to get better fuel economy, lower emissions and more power.
Disagree !!
The Evans is a little thicker in principle,and it goes around the engine just as well as any water. Its advantage is, it is much more thermally efficient and picks up the heat and dissipates heat much more efficiently at the radiator. Racing cars use it as they can run smaller radiators (So saving weight) and still get the same cooling as large Radiators with water in them.
Manufacturers dont use it as it is very expensive and also dont forget they want your engine to eventually fail or you wont have to buy another car from them.
They rust out as proved by some of your own photos and water ethylene glycol produces scale.
Evans also runs with no more pressure than .8 of a bar. So little pressure on the head and little pressure on the pipework. I have the Standard Thermostat fitted - Nothing Special.
Another reason they dont use it, there is not actually enough of the stuff in the world to put in every car made. !!
When / If I get another vehicle - The first thing I will do is change it onto Evans. I use the stuff - Does anyone else on here ??
It is truly the best coolant I have ever used, amd my engine is as sweet as a nut.
I agree that Jon likes to put all kinds of stuff on his car and that is fine with me. I tend to take time to research things before I move. I researched Evans for pretty much a year. !!!
Every one has there own ideas on how to make cars quicker better and more reliable.
The choice though - has to be Jons.
JON - I use = NPG + It has a vague Slight Orange colour.
And I still dont think its anything to do with this anyway. I still beleive its a stupid connection or a slightly clogged Injector
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Ignition timing box thingy
Hi jpor,
My buddy with his YRV Turbo also got a misfire after he washed his motor...tried lots of things. The problem was that little box under the intercooler, i think its the ignition timing box. He opened it up with a very small screw driver along the edge where the silicon sits and then saw some corrosion on the soldering, he re-soldered it and problem went away you can try and get one and see if it works
06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &
Thanks Volvarine will have a
Thanks Volvarine will have a look at this as well
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
"New D-SPort Live wire from
"New D-SPort Live wire from alternator to battery"
I would check the battery terminals...would be funny if they are a bit loose...
Where did you get the lightened pulleys? What pulleys are lightened?
06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &
Battery terminals are fine.
Battery terminals are fine. Using the quick release connectors, which have been adjusted by the garage for me.
The pullies are lightened aluminium ones. All but the alternator and tensioner have been replaced thus far.
DaihatsuDave got me the pullies from one of his sources. So jot sure where from. Worth PMing him if you're interested in getting some.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Could be clearing up !!
You never know it could be the stuff you put in is finally getting to grips with whatever the blockage is.
If it has just loosened it from where ever it was it still has to be blasted out of the system and this may take a while.
Fingers crossed.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Still thinking its the
Still thinking its the Exhaust O2 that may have got some water when I had the Exhaust hole due to the hanger part putting stress on the metal and ripping. Too coincidental for my liking
Read that O2 sensors and water dont mix 
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Hi Bob. Not sure about that
Hi Bob. Not sure about that yet, it could be, but there seems to be a pattern at the moment, unless that changes then will see.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Nope, still got the misfire
Nope, still got the misfire
Also noticed fuel economy is dire as well. Also get this burning smell through the air vents as well, maybe fuel running lean or even that bg44K stuff doing its stuff. Just done nearly 40 miles so still time will tell. Need to look at other things. Maybe the FCD?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Fuel economy dire = running
Fuel economy dire = running rich not lean. Lean is not enough fuel.
Worth trying FCD removal I guess to rule it out,
Coudl have one of the wire splices sometimes losing contact
Worth trying FCD removal I
double post so I edited this one out
What I think !!
Slightly Blocked /Faulty Injector !!
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Its a weird one. Got it down
Its a weird one. Got it down to being only happening when:
- Car has warmed up
- Just touching the the accelrator fine, mid-way and bit of blat the chug chug of the engine misfiring. Full blat throttle chug chug then okay.
Still running through the BK44G stuff still as well. As the tree said to the man, 'I'm Stumped'
Going to enlists DaihatsuDave's help on this also, as he has kindly offered to use parts of his Scrapper to see where the trouble lies. Will definately be looking at removing the FCD as a first port of call, and take it from there.
If I cant fathom this out then I might have to take drastic measures, and get rid of the car
As it is now taking up more time than its worth and got a feeling it might not pass another MOT on emissions 
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Criky.
Get rid of the car !!!!!!
Now that is drastic.
It will be something and nothing - you watch.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
All I do know Bob, is this is
All I do know Bob, is this is one of those things getting on my nerves. Unfortunately money and resources are a bit tight these days
so something might have to give.
Hopefully its something straight forward. Still going to try the following:
- Remove Nathans FCD gizmo, just in-case its this
- Try replacement Coil PAcks
- Replace fuel Injectors and rail
Hopefully Daihatsu Dave will be able to give us a hand with some parts of his scrapper to try such as the crank sensor etc..
If none of these work then I will have to re-evaluate the situation. Would be a shame to get rid but where needs must
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Okay. Had a bit of a tinker
Okay. Had a bit of a tinker with my car this afternoon. This is an interesting one, as I have had a play with the FCD and the screw adjuster.
So using the small lid part as North, I turned the screw 1 quarter turn anti-clockwise. Took the car out and noticed straight away after the car had warmed up the jerkiness and hesitation had come back. On a quiet country lane conducted some tests byt using steershift and in second gear, quick blipped the throttle 1/3rd and the engine would misfire/hesitate everytime without fail. Got back home and adjusted the screw clockwise 1/2 with the engine off. Out again, same conditions, this time the car would only slightly hestiate/misfire in 2nd gear. Again back home engine off adjusted the screw clockwise again (Using the small lid part as north) by 1/4 turn. Out again and hesitation in 2nd not appeared.
Now it could be coincidence, but the engine was red hot at this time and what I did may not be conclusive enough to prove its the FCD. I do know that the screw is I think near its limits of being turn clock wise (Using the small thin lid piece as north), I did get a slight hesitation on the road once changing up the gears, but only slight, also I was getting a slight burning sensation from the engine, so not sure if the BG44K stuff was to blame here for that, or the BG44K had cleared up something when the engine was at optimal temps.
Also the car can still boost upto 0.98 bar without fuel cut.
Will be taking the car out again tomorrow, so lets see.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Keep turning it clockwise
Keep turning it clockwise until fuel cut is back again, then anticlockwise just enough so it's not.
May just be more mileage travelled with the BG44K.
PS, Don't swap or fiddle with crank angle sensor! Car would not start or run at all if that is faulty, so it's not that, plus any fault there and the ECU light would be on for sure.
A misfire under load is either spark, or fuel mixture. And as it's doing it under certain throttle, It sounds like fuel mixture related, injectors or O2 sensor
I think the screw is already
I think the screw is already near the limit now on the clockwise turn part. Will see when I next take the car out for a spin to see what the story is.
Just weird that turning the screw on the FCD made it worse until I turned it back clockwise things became better? Oh well lets see.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
No that's correct,
No that's correct, Anticlockwise means less fuel, so that makes any lean misfire problem even worse
Okay. Update time
Okay. Update time again:
Been out for another spin in the car. Once cold and warming up, no issues. Got down the main b Road near to my house and about 4 miles in (Approx. 5-6 minutes) the car exhibited bad misfire. At one point the car actually shook voilently, like the car was to stall if you had it in the wrong gear and backed off by just touching the accelerator which brought the car back in control. Tried it again and the misfire came back. Drove gently fine. Got to a set of traffic lights, started off fine. Got onto a bit of open road, chugging again and then smooth.
Got to my destination and parked up the car and came back after 40 minutes being warmed up. Drove back home and weirdly enough no misfire. Only got a slight one. Used both the steershift and auto mode and the car pulled like a train.
So when the car is warming up misfire. When car stopped and restarted after a while and driving home no misfire.
Any ideas? Tempted to pull off the FCD altogether to make sure its not this, but would it cause such a violent shake of the car like that?
What is weir is that I havent played with the FCD, so if it is this, could what ever be in the device malfunctioning?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Injector !
I still go with a blocked injector.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
I cant see it being the FCD,
I cant see it being the FCD, remember the FCD is only working after 12-13psi, before that boost it is not doing anything.
But remove it anyway just to be sure.
Cheers for the
Cheers for the responses.
Have bought some second hand coil packs and injectors and rail off eBay from that yellow scrapper being advertised.
Just waiting on them being delivered. Going o swap the coils first to make sure it's not them breaking down.
Could be what Bob is saying a fuel injector issue. But why after being warmed up and left that the car then runs like a normal car again? Wouldn't a faulty injector(s) be doing this all the time?
How easy is it to replace the injectors? Are they just clipped onto the rail and just unclip?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Unlikely the coils as it
Unlikely the coils as it would misfire under the hardest load condition rather than mid throttle, Plus a coil pack misfire would bring up check engine light.
Don't waste money/time buying parts willy nilly.
You may be fitting crappy parts and removing perfect ones.
Got some coils just incase.
Got some coils just incase. What about the injectors?
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Manual !!
I thought you had the Manual Jon ??
But I agree with Nathan. Take off the injectors and have them cleaned properly. Its not expensive.
You will have to use the Suby for a few days.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Yeah I have the manuals.
Yeah I have the manuals. Just being lazy
I know what your saying about sending the injectors off etc.. But need to prove it is this issue first. Plus it never hurts to have some spares just in-case
The scooby is off on its next service and MOT this week, funnily enough the garage I am taking it to is the same one I got the Unichip-Q fitted to my YRV and they too do an injector cleaning service, so will enquire when I go in to drop of the scooby.
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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
Approx. 150BHP/305BHP
YRV Mods: Apexi Cone Filter,Blitz Nur-Spec-R Exhaust System,
Excellent Idea!
Ditto.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
I would remove and post yours
I would remove and post yours off to be cleaned,Otherwise the ones you fit could also be dirty.
Half the Fun / Half the Annoyance
You are clearly close to a solution on this one.
Keep playing !!
But Question = Why did it suddenly start doing this ??
Hmmmm.
2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.
Hi jpor. Look forward to your
Hi jpor.
Look forward to your further posts,tried injector cleaner myself.Fingers crossed it works for you.
The mechanic is talking
The mechanic is talking shite, as often is the case.
Denso injectors, are one of the best, And the vast majority of Japanese and many other cars use them
A exhaust leak near a 02 sensor cant certainly cause slight misfires, especially on sudden throttle movements
Or could be a partial misfire under load from a slightly dicky coil pack.
Off the shelf injector
Off the shelf injector cleaners are mostly a waste of money. They really only effective to help keep things clean.
BG44K is one that is potent enough, But be warned there has been reports of some injector cleaners, disolving/degrading the built in tank type fuel filters that the YRV has.