Forum:
Is there an infalliable way of spliting bottom balljoints on a 4trak? I've done the job before, using a 3-leg puller. Ha ha, not this time. One balljoint broke my middle-size puller which fitted a treat, but succumbed to the big puller.
The other balljoint has all but stripped the threads on my big puller, despite my trying heating the outer metalwork with a hot air paint stripper.
I'm thinking about getting mean now, like setting up a big block of wood under the balljoint and dropping the vehicle on the protruding stud ( with the torsion bars released, of course )
Suggestions as to more subtle methods of balljoint extraction are welcome before I get really mad at it !
Nailed the so-and-so
Went to the auto factors and asked for the meanest balljoint splitter they had. Well, a small-ish outlet didn't have that big a choice, but the 'scissors' type with the forked wedge that goes between the metalwork and the balljoint seal and another part that bears on the balljoint thread, did the job.
Not as easy as all that, though, because I could feel the threads on this tool stretching while I was belting 7 bells of hell on the end of the joint with a 3lb lump hammer.
Now, looking at the manual, I see that the balljoint on the end of the Pitman (steering box) arm must be assembled without a trace of grease, to be sure that the taper does not move ..... now how the hell do the inscrutable orientals expect us to get THAT undone !!!!
If you want to heat up that k
If you want to heat up that kind of metal work, you'll need a blow torch at least.
I've found the most likely method to work is as follows:
1) find a willing volentire (see gulible twit, with little to no sence of self presivation).
2) get a about a 6ft length of scafold poll or simmilare (see pry bar, 4x4 size).
3) get iddiot, sorry volotire to jimmy the offending ball joint, and then stand on the end of the 4x4 size pry bar. (you may need to put the car on ramps to get the necisary leverage).
4) now you get the fun bit, heat the joint as much as you dare, and then take out all that pent up agresion against that little git at the office who won't let you go to the drink's macheine without interigating you about this years gross turnover os such.... Oh sorry got caried away there. Where was I. Ah, yes agretion.
5) use you hammer (see bigest peice of steel, atached to a wooden handle you can find that'll fit, and you can lift) to gently (OK not gently) persuad the little f... bleeder to let go.
Any help?
P.S. Expect grased knucles at the very least.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Ball joint
Hi
I never have much trouble with removing ball joints on most cars I've had but never done a 4track, you must jack the car up so the ball joint is straight if you look at it while its on the ground it is at a angle you will smash the life out of it and it wont come out.
Jack up till its straight (vertical) undo the nut but dont remove it just have it at the top of the ball joint then a quick sharp blow with a copper mallet and it should pop out,its only sat in on a taper.
Alfie